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Shanghai as a whole encompasses a huge area, but the city center is a relatively small district hard by the Huangpu River in what is called Puxi (west of the river). On the east side lies what many think is Shanghai's future -- Pudong (east of the river). The old Chinese city is now surrounded by the Zhonghua Lu-Renmin Lu circle. Although most Shanghainese consider the city center to be whatever lies within the Ring Road, the heart of the city is found on its chief east-west streets -- Nanjing Lu, Huaihai Lu, and Yanan Lu -- cut off in the west approximately at Wulumuqi Lu and in the east by Wai Tan, Shanghai's waterfront boulevard, also known as the Bund.
Parts of the city are easily explored on foot, and taxis -- by far the most convenient way to get around -- are plentiful and easy to spot. Most are red Volkswagen Santanas, although they also come in white, green, yellow, and blue.
 
 
This 1,381-ft tower, once the tallest structure in Asia, is the pride and joy of the Shanghainese. The spaceship-like affair is especially kitschy at night, facing the classic beauty of the Bund. Its several spheres are supposed to represent pearls (as in "Shanghai, Pearl of the Orient"). An elevator takes you to the top sphere for 360-degree city views. COST: Y20, first sphere; Y100, top sphere. Daily 8 AM-9:30 PM.
 
 
One of the Bund's most impressive buildings, the former Hongkong & Shanghai Bank, was built by the British in the early 1920s. A beautiful Italian-tile mosaic was uncovered in the building's dome in the 1990s; the circular mosaic was deemed too extravagant for a Communist government office, so it was covered in the 1950s by white paint, which ironically protected it from being found by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution. COST: Free. Weekdays 9-4:30, weekends 9-4.
 
 
Since the 18th century, this complex with traditional red walls and upturned tile roofs has been a marketplace and social center where local residents gather, shop, and practice qi gong in the evenings. Although some find it overly touristed, Yu Garden is a piece of Shanghai's past, one of the few old sights left in the city. To get to the garden, you must wind your way through the bazaar surrounding it; the ticket booth is just north of the central lake. Within the winding walkways, bridges, artificial mountains and lakes, carp-filled ponds, dragon-lined walls, and pavilions are an old opera stage, a museum dedicated to the Society of Small Swords rebellion, and the Chenghuang Miao (Temple of the City God). COST: Y25. Gardens, daily 8:30-5
 
 
Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the father of the Chinese republic, lived in this two-story house for six years, from 1919 to 1924. His wife, Soong Chingling, continued to live here after his death until 1937. Today the home is a museum, and you can tour the grounds. COST: Y8. Daily 9-4:30.
 
 
One of Shanghai's treasures, this urn-shape museum is the foremost showcase of relics and artifacts in the country. Its 11 state-of-the-art galleries house China's first international-standard exhibits of paintings, bronzes, sculpture, ceramics, calligraphy, jade, Ming and Qing dynasty furniture, coins, seals, and minority art. The bronze collection is among the best in the world. The excellent acoustic guide is highly informative. COST: Y20 (free after 4), Y60 with acoustic guide. Sun.-Fri. 9-5, Sat. 9-8
 
 
Shanghai's waterfront boulevard combines the best aspects of the city's pre-1949 and its future-oriented focus. In the early 1920s, the Bund became the city's foreign street: Americans and Europeans built banks, trading houses, clubs, consulates, and hotels in styles from neoclassical to Art Deco. The municipal government has renovated the old buildings. In the mornings just after dawn, the riverfront side of the Bund bustles with people ballroom dancing, doing aerobics, and practicing kung fu. Later on, people walk the embankment, snapping photos of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, the Huangpu River, and each other. In the evenings lovers come out for a romantic stroll.
 
 
Shanghai's largest temple, the 131-ft-tall Longhua Pagoda, affords views of the city and surrounding countryside. Dating from the 10th century, but rebuilt, the pagoda has numerous halls with hexagonal windows, arched entryways, and roofs of curved eaves. They are surrounded by walls in the shape of a perfect rectangle in accordance with traditional Buddhist symmetry. COST: Y5. Daily 7-5.
 
 
For a memorable view, take the middle elevators to the top floor of the north building and then climb the last two flights of stairs to the roof. This great spot is an outdoor caf¨¦, from which you can see former owner Victor Sassoon's penthouse and the action on the streets and river below.
 
Courtesy of Fodors  
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