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Shanghai as a whole
encompasses a huge area, but the city center is a relatively small
district hard by the Huangpu River in what is called Puxi (west
of the river). On the east side lies what many think is Shanghai's
future -- Pudong (east of the river). The old Chinese city is now
surrounded by the Zhonghua Lu-Renmin Lu circle. Although most Shanghainese
consider the city center to be whatever lies within the Ring Road,
the heart of the city is found on its chief east-west streets --
Nanjing Lu, Huaihai Lu, and Yanan Lu -- cut off in the west approximately
at Wulumuqi Lu and in the east by Wai Tan, Shanghai's waterfront
boulevard, also known as the Bund.
Parts of the city are easily explored on foot, and taxis -- by far
the most convenient way to get around -- are plentiful and easy
to spot. Most are red Volkswagen Santanas, although they also come
in white, green, yellow, and blue. |
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This 1,381-ft
tower, once the tallest structure in Asia, is the pride and
joy of the Shanghainese. The spaceship-like affair is especially
kitschy at night, facing the classic beauty of the Bund. Its
several spheres are supposed to represent pearls (as in "Shanghai,
Pearl of the Orient"). An elevator takes you to the top
sphere for 360-degree city views. COST: Y20, first sphere;
Y100, top sphere. Daily 8 AM-9:30 PM. |
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One of the Bund's
most impressive buildings, the former Hongkong & Shanghai
Bank, was built by the British in the early 1920s. A beautiful
Italian-tile mosaic was uncovered in the building's dome in
the 1990s; the circular mosaic was deemed too extravagant
for a Communist government office, so it was covered in the
1950s by white paint, which ironically protected it from being
found by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution. COST:
Free. Weekdays 9-4:30, weekends 9-4. |
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Since the 18th
century, this complex with traditional red walls and upturned
tile roofs has been a marketplace and social center where
local residents gather, shop, and practice qi gong in the
evenings. Although some find it overly touristed, Yu Garden
is a piece of Shanghai's past, one of the few old sights left
in the city. To get to the garden, you must wind your way
through the bazaar surrounding it; the ticket booth is just
north of the central lake. Within the winding walkways, bridges,
artificial mountains and lakes, carp-filled ponds, dragon-lined
walls, and pavilions are an old opera stage,
a museum dedicated to the Society of Small
Swords rebellion, and the Chenghuang Miao
(Temple of the City God). COST: Y25. Gardens, daily 8:30-5 |
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Dr. Sun Yat-sen,
the father of the Chinese republic, lived in this two-story
house for six years, from 1919 to 1924. His wife, Soong Chingling,
continued to live here after his death until 1937. Today the
home is a museum, and you can tour the grounds. COST: Y8.
Daily 9-4:30. |
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One of Shanghai's
treasures, this urn-shape museum is the foremost showcase
of relics and artifacts in the country. Its 11 state-of-the-art
galleries house China's first international-standard exhibits
of paintings, bronzes, sculpture, ceramics, calligraphy, jade,
Ming and Qing dynasty furniture, coins, seals, and minority
art. The bronze collection is among the best in the world.
The excellent acoustic guide is highly informative. COST:
Y20 (free after 4), Y60 with acoustic guide. Sun.-Fri. 9-5,
Sat. 9-8 |
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Shanghai's waterfront
boulevard combines the best aspects of the city's pre-1949
and its future-oriented focus. In the early 1920s, the Bund
became the city's foreign street: Americans and Europeans
built banks, trading houses, clubs, consulates, and hotels
in styles from neoclassical to Art Deco. The municipal government
has renovated the old buildings. In the mornings just after
dawn, the riverfront side of the Bund bustles with people
ballroom dancing, doing aerobics, and practicing kung fu.
Later on, people walk the embankment, snapping photos of the
Oriental Pearl TV Tower, the Huangpu River, and each other.
In the evenings lovers come out for a romantic stroll. |
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Shanghai's
largest temple, the 131-ft-tall Longhua Pagoda, affords views
of the city and surrounding countryside. Dating from the 10th
century, but rebuilt, the pagoda has numerous halls with hexagonal
windows, arched entryways, and roofs of curved eaves. They
are surrounded by walls in the shape of a perfect rectangle
in accordance with traditional Buddhist symmetry. COST: Y5.
Daily 7-5. |
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For a memorable
view, take the middle elevators to the top floor of the north
building and then climb the last two flights of stairs to
the roof. This great spot is an outdoor caf¨¦, from which you
can see former owner Victor Sassoon's penthouse and the action
on the streets and river below. |
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